Saturday 18 May 2019

Depart Sydney: 3:05pm on QATAR AIRWAYS flight QR 907 - Business Class Qsuite Aircraft: BOEING 777-300ER Flying time: 15 hours and 35 minutes Distance: 7691 miles Arrive: 11:40pm DOHA Saturday 18 May 2019

Sunday 19 May 2019

Depart: 1:55am DOHA on QATAR AIRWAYS flight QR 201 - Business Class Aircraft: AIRBUS INDUSTRIE 321 Flying time: 5 hours and 50 minutes Distance: 2335 miles Arrive: 6:45am FERIHEGY, BUDAPEST on Sunday 19 May 2019

My journey into wonder begins with a two night stay at the Marriott Budapest.

-----------

The tour started with a dinner at the hotel, there seem to be a lot of people. I think that there are a group that are just doing the river cruise and perhaps another that will also do the land tour.

Dinner was good, no mushy food. I only met a few people over dinner, there was no other tour briefing or introductions. I guess they will cover that on the bus this morning.

After dinner I went for a walk as it started to get dark. Sunset here is around 8:45pm. The city is very beautiful lit up. I have some photos, probably some double ups (I did take a lot of photo's). It was nice to get out in the fresh air after dinner and there were a lot of other people also out and about.

It is now Tuesday morning and the sun is shining! I leave on a city tour soon, this will cover the old part of town and the castle. Will check back in later today.

I join a guided tour through the city often considered the most beautiful in Europe.

Our guide Andrea led our tour that started on a bus and travelled through the city. The first stop was Heroes square.

The Millennium Monument in the middle of the square was erected to commemorate the 1000-year-old history of the Magyars. Archangel Gabriel stands on top of the center pillar, holding the holy crown and the double cross of Christianity. The seven chieftains who led the Magyar tribes to Hungary can be seen on the stand below. Statues of kings and other important historical figures stand on top of the colonnades on either side of the center pillar.

When the monument was originally constructed, Hungary was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and thus the last five spaces for statues on the left of the colonnade were reserved for members of the ruling Habsburg dynasty. The Habsburg emperors were replaced with Hungarian freedom fighters when the monument was rebuilt after World War II.

In 1989 a crowd of 250,000 gathered at the square for the reburial of Imre Nagy, former Prime Minister of Hungary, who was executed in 1958. This was the PM that tried to liberate Hungary from the Soviets.

Next stop was the Citadel. The Citadel in Budapest is a 19th century fortification on top of Gellert Hill (part of the UNESCO World Heritage site) – the fortress was turned into a lookout tower / stronghold, which provides one of the most stunning views over the river Danube.

The final stop was the Royal Palace, Castle and Fishermans Bastion. This is the old part of town with views over the river from the buda side.

On the way back to the hotel there were more sights, the parliment building - third largest in the world behind London and Buenos Aires. Apparently Freddie Mercury visited and asked how much it was to buy. The parliment buiding is the one in most of my photo's by the river.

Just near the parliment was a monument from the holocost, one of the most moving. These are the shoes by the river. They symbolise the 3,500 people that were bought down to the river every half hour and executed by the Nazi Arrow Cross Party. They were made to take off their shoes (because they were valuable) before being shot and falling into the river.

IN SEARCH OF KÜRTŐSKALÁCS

Kürtőskalács is made from sweet, yeast dough (raised dough), of which a strip is spun and then wrapped around a truncated cone–shaped baking spit, and rolled in granulated sugar. It is roasted over charcoal while basted with melted butter, until its surface cooks to a golden-brown color. During the baking process the sugar stuck on the kürtőskalács caramelises and forms a shiny, crispy crust. The surface of the cake can then be topped with additional ingredients such as ground walnut or powdered cinnamon. Then it can be filled with ice cream!

During our morning tour the guide told us about this Hungarian dessert. So in the afternoon I went searching, after visiting the markets and not finding any I started searching the streets. After walking for a few hours enjoying the sights I gave up and started heading back to the hotel. Just before I returned I ran into a coffee shop that made them.

Yes they were worth the wait! I had mine with cinamon filled with ice cream. There are some photos to show you how they are made and what they looked like.

DINNER AND HUNGARIAN GYPSY SHOW

The evening started with a shot of Apricot Palinka, a hungarian a fruit brandy spirit - 45% alcohol. We were told not to sip it because it will hurt!

Dinner started with Goulash and then Pullet (chicken) and a traditional sponge cake. Hungarian's use paprika like salt and pepper and a bit of heat makes everything better. I even finished by Goulash.

It was a fun night of music and dance from the performers.

I Board the Crystal Scenic Space-Ship. At tonight’s welcome reception, my travel mates and I raise our glass to the wonderful cruise ahead.

------------

The last day in Budapest we had a free morning. I spent the time going for a walk and went back for a final chimney cake and coffee.

After lunch we left the hotel for the ship. It was docked just across for the parliament building. The cabins were nice and I was introduced to my butler Vladimir.

After unpacking I headed to the lounge for a cocktail and the introductory briefing.

The dinner was excellent as usual. But the highlight of the night was the nighttime cruising in Budapest. We had a great view of all of the attractions lit up at night.

Today, we witness a traditional Hungarian horse show.

-------------

We set sail at around 4 in the morning. Arriving in our first destination Kalosca after lunch. This town is famous for it’s paprika and horses.

Sorry, having trouble with internet connection on the river and when we are traveling between two different countries on each river bank. Just crossing into Croatia now.

But don’t worry about me. I am on the ship with my butler, free alcohol (including cocktails) and dessert bar.

Hopefully back soon.

The horse show was a bit different to what I expected but was ok. I did go for a horse ride after the show! Also saw my first long haired pig.

Freechoice day, either explore Osijek on a guided city tour, or take a blissful guided bike ride through Osijek’s countryside.

As a Scenic guest, we will be invited into the home of a local family for a traditional home-cooked meal and the chance to discover what everyday life is really like in Croatia.

-------------

The next day we arrived into Osijek. We walked around the town, some of the buildings still scarred with shrapnel from the war. Then off to a local village and lunch in a local’s home.

Now back on the boat, listening to some local musicians. They look after you very well on the boat. So enjoying myself.

Oh, something else to mention. Lauren, they have a salt room on board the ship, so I checked it out tonight. Also I have had my first colored light shower. There are settings for Fire, Ice, Wave and Sweep, basically representing the colours you can set for the shower head!

Another Freechoice activity today - join a local guide for an in-depth discovery of Belgrade and visit Tito’s Memorial, or see Belgrade on an orientation tour before time at leisure. Alternatively, choose a guided bike ride along the Danube, or journey to Sremski Karlovci, where I can explore the town and marvel at the many beautiful Baroque elements. I also have the option of gaining some true insights into everyday life on a walking tour with a local.

The trip to the village was good, it was about an hour out of the city, and the trip gives you a chance to see some of the countryside. It is very green over here. The buildings are a mix of communist grey and some traditional baroque.

The weather was good, plenty of sun. After strolling through the town we headed to a winery and honey farm. There was plenty of tasting of white, red and dessert wine.

In the afternoon I headed into the Belgrade city, it was a Saturday so there were a lot of people around. I headed into the fort where there was carnival set up, so lots of things to see. Including archery, medieval costumes, dancing and other entertainment. Jake there were even dinosaurs, I have taken some photo’s for you.

Then onto the cathedral and a walk through the Main Street, lots of interesting architecture.

Today I relax on board and admire the scenery as we cruise the spectacular Iron Gates – a narrow gorge that the Danube has carved out between the Carpathian and Balkan Mountains. Not only is it a spectacular setting, it’s also the natural border between Serbia and Romania.

Back on board we set sail, passing through the iron gates and I have now just passed through the first loch. I was up early to see the sunrise and a castle on the river, it was freezing cole, but there was a lot of fog so not much to see. The fog has now lifted and the sun is shining!

Most of the day was relaxing as we had a sailing day, which basically means more eating and drinking.

At sundown we raise a toast to the end of a wonderful day in this spectacular location.

Freechoice day, discover the Byzantine gem of Veliko Tarnovo and the village of Arbanassi. Or stay on board and cruise to the town of Rousse, where we will be treated to a guided sightseeing tour.

Today we arrived in Rousse, Bulgaria. I did the city tour this morning and am now in the lounge where I have been able to finally upload some photos.

The cities in these countries are a mix of buildings, soviet grey and more european looking buildings that are a bit run down. In Serbia and Bulgaria there is a lot of graffiti across them. It has been interesting seeing them and hearing about their history. The counties are still relatively poor and you can see some of them trying to recover from the war and fall of communism in 1990.

Bulgaria is know for its roses and they actually do have a rose perfume.

More choices, discover the Silistra Fort during an active walking tour, or take an excursion to Varna on the Black Sea coast. Or tour a local village, including a visit to the primary school, and learn about life in Bulgaria.

On the last tour option in Bulgaria I choose to travel to Varna, this is a coastal town on the Black Sea. It was a long drive, but it is always nice to see a bit more of the country side. Here there are many fields, the land is relatively flat. Scattered in the fields there are mounds that are burial sites from the Greek and Roman periods.

Our first stop was to an archelogical museum where the artifacts from these sites were displayed. The town is famous for it's "Gold of Varna," 6,000-year-old Thracian jewelry discovered in a necropolis.

Then we had some free time to walk down to the sea, where there are several coffee shops and restaurants. Our lunchtime stop was a restraunt shaped in a ship on the beach. There were plenty of people on the sand sunbathing (with and without clothes) but not many in the water, it is still cold around 17 degrees.

Then back to the ship for our farewell dinner, we have certainly been spoilt on the ship. We were also lucky, the ships travelling behind us were delayed because of flooding, which meant that they could not pass under the bridges. Where we walked only days ago in Budapest, is now under water.

We bid a fond farewell to the crew as we disembark our Scenic Space-Ship and travel to Bucharest.

Oh no another Freechoice, explore Bucharest and learn about its communist past, including a visit to Ceausescu’s Spring Palace. Or tour the Village Open Air Museum and discover ethnography exhibits depicting Romanian heritage and culture.

Later, check-in for my stay at the Sheraton Bucharest Hotel.

In the morning we left the ship behind for buses to travel to Bucharest. Here we visited one of the palaces - the Spring Palace (Palatul Primaverii), that the communist dictator Nicolae Ceausescu and his wife Elena lived the last 25 years of their lives. A glimpse into the opulent lifestyle that Romania’s last dictator and his family enjoyed at a time when most Romanians were surviving on food and fuel rations and living in fear of the Securitate, the Romanian secret police. In the revolution of 1989, which overthrew the regime led to their executions by firing squad on Christmas Day.

The city of Bucharest is quite large, they also have the second largest administration building in the world, second only to the pentagon. There are a lot of people around, the pope is due to arrive on Friday.

I am now at the sheraton hotel resting before dinner. Hope you are all well.

Today we journey to the historic Bulgarian capital of Sofia, our base for the next two nights. Staying in the Hilton Sofia.

Not much to update you on with most of the day travelling. We did cross the boarder and bribed the customs officials to make sure that we had a smooth crossing. This is the done thing apparently with lots of corruption and mafia. We stopped for lunch and had bulgarian mousakka.

With a local guide, we discover neo-classical Stalinist architecture, tree-lined boulevards and buildings by 19th century Russian and Viennese architects. This evening, we will be treated to a delicious dinner and folk show at a local restaurant.

Our first day in Sofia started with a city tour. The usual mix of churches, parlimentary buildings and museums, there are also some roman ruines in some of the photo's. The afternoon was free so I spent some time walking through their main street full of shops and cafes.

I do need to tell you about the roses. This is where a lot of the worlds rose essential oils come from. There are street roses everywhere and they are actually perfumed!

Something new to report coming back from dinner in the mountains the bus broke down. We took 15 taxis back to the hotel.

Our first stop today is Skopje which has been inhabited since 4000 BC. Continue through the Macedonian countryside before arriving at Ohrid Lake for a two night stay at the Kaki Hotel and Spa.

Then enjoy a traditional Macedonian dinner and folklore show. It’s a wonderful opportunity to absorb some of the region’s unique culture.

This morning we were due to leave Sofia, but have been delayed, not sure for long, will let you know

My last update told you about the trouble we had with the bus. The hope was that it was able to be fixed for us in the morning. Unfortunatley that was not the case. We were delayed in Sofia for the morning and instead of leaving at 8am we left at 12pm.

However, it was not with the comfortable long distance coach with wifi and facilities, it was with a replacement that was something inbetween a school bus and a good coach. The worst part was that we had a full day of driving on very bumpy and windy roads.

We arrived into Ohrid at about 8pm and missed our city stop at the capital of Macedonia. But the good part was that we arrived and was not delayed further.

Tour the town with our knowledgeable guide this morning. With its temples, ruins and Byzantine basilicas, Ohrid is one of the most ancient towns in the Balkans.

Then a choice of visiting the Monastery of St. Naum or enjoy a cooking class in a local village. Alternatively, take a guided hike through the Galicica National Park.

Some good news this morning, a replacement coach has arrived with our original driver so we should be more comfortable.

Back to Ohrid, we started the next day with a city tour. Unfortunatley the weather was not good and it rained all day. It is a bit hard holding an umbrella and a camera at the same time so most of my photo's are on the iphone.

It was a shame, because the walk that we did was beautiful and even with the bad weather we could see how clear the lake was. We were absolutely soaked and walking on cobble stones is hard enough in normal weather, but wet were even more of a callenge.

In the afternoon we had our free choice options. I headed to the bay of bones and a monastry. It was a good afternoon. The bay of bones is an archelogical site where remenants of old civilisations were found under the lake. Now they have recreated the huts floating on boards showing what has been found. Scuba divers swim through the lake and can see some of the old site.

FOOD POST - MACEDONIAN HOT CHOCOLATE

At a cafe at Ohrid I ordered a hot chocolate. Not thinking much more of it other than a warm drink.

When it arrived it came with a spoon. The Macadonian hot chocolate is eaten not drunk!

Yes, that is right, the spoon is to eat what can be described at hot chocolate custart.

I was not complaining, it actually tasted nice!

In the night we had a night out with an open bar at a local restaurant with pleantly of food and dancing. The local specialities were fetta cheese, bell pepper dip/spread and garlic (hot) mixed with water. The local drink was a quince brandy. A good night out and lots of fun with traditional dances and music.

We arrive in the Byzantine city of Tirana and check into the Sheraton before embarking on a city tour.

The leader of the communist party in Albania was a little strange. He thought Russia was too liberal so severed all ties with them. He closed off the boarders and any outside influences, telling his people that they had the best country and that others were jealous. This is what lead to hundreds and thousands of bunkers being built across the country so that they could defend themselves. In reality, no one wanted to invade them. Each person over the age of 18, male and female had to spend 4 weeks a year staying in and protecting these bunkers.

The other claim to fame is the narcotics production for Europe. Also the religion is mainly Muslim, so plenty of mosques. The architecture in the city does not have any other of the European influences and is mainly of the communist style. There are some new buildings being built now.

The food choice is a dessert that is a type of biscuit soaked in three types of milk and then covered in caramel on top. Yum!

Today we travel to Montenegro and arrive in Budva for our overnight stay at the Avala Resort.

The weather was overcast today and the fog rolled in over the mountains. I was so hoping for a bright sunny day for our trip up the coastline. However it was still good. On the way into Budva we drove past the peninsula that is St Stevens.

This is the photo from the home page on my website. The island is actually a private resort for the rich and famous and you are not allowed on. This was where Novak Djokovic was married. At first we were only going to drive past from the bus, but then we made a quick stop. Still not the best vantage point.

Arriving in town we first had lunch and then walked along the seaside to our hotel. There were plenty of small boats that did panoramic tours around the coast and islands. I wanted to get one to take me back to St Stevens. So I found a few friends and we had a two hour trip along the coast and around the islands, while the weather was not great, the rain held off. The water was so clear and the rocky cliffs and caves were amazing. So glad I did it.

Then I went for a walk around the old town, filled with shops and restaurants. It was a really nice place to wander. I have come back to my room for a rest and will soon head out to get something for dinner. I forgot to mention, my room looks out over the old town and Adriatic Sea, it is beautiful!

Hope to get some photo’s up for you soon.

A knowledgeable local guide will show us around the Bay of Kotor. Take in amazing vistas as we journey along the Adriatic coast to Dubrovnik where we will enjoy a two night stay at the Grand Villa Argentina.

We left Budva and made a stop in Kotar. Kotar is a walled city on the water with thousands of steps climbing through the mountain.

After a city tour we had free time to explore. I decided to tackle some of the steps to get a view over the roof tops and looking back into the water. They say if you make it to the church high in the mountain you do not need a doctor. I think I need a doctor. Actually I did not plan on heading all the way up, just enough to get my photo's. After the walk it was time for ice cream!

Then we left to cross the boarder into Croatia. This took a bit of time as there were several buses in front of us. Next stop was a water mill, learning about how water was used to process grains into flour etc.

Then we finally arrived in our destination of Dubrovnik and the weather started to improve. Not wanting to waste any time I headed down into the old town for a look around and to take some photo's. I was able to watch the sunset against the water which was nice. Totally exhausted I headed back up the hill to the hotel for bed before the next full day.

Today we see Onofrio’s Fountain and visit the Old Pharmacy in the Franciscan Monastery.

Then a choice - take a scenic journey through the pretty countryside, visit the Konavle villages and the town of Cavtat. Alternatively, if I am feeling more energetic, walk Dubrovnik’s medieval ramparts.

This evening we visit a local farm house where we will get to meet the owners and taste their delicious home grown produce during a mouth watering dinner.

I woke early and walked to a point that looks back at the old town for some photos. The morning light reflecting on the buildings was worth the walk.

Then we started with our tour of the old town, I was glad that I had been the night before and taken some photo’s as it was pretty hot and there was a lot of people. Three cruise ships were in town.

The afternoon was our own for free time. I climbed the walls of the city for some great views! You could walk all the way around them.

Now totally exhausted, I stopped for ice cream and a rest. Then I headed back to the hotel and looked out onto the Adriatic Sea watching the world go by.

Then it was off to a local families house for dinner. Everything we ate was from their farm, the alcohol, the cheese, meat, vegetables. There was traditional music and dancing, another fun night.

En route to Sarajevo, we stop in the beautiful city of Mostar. Visit the Turkish House and the Old Bridge. Later, check into our hotel, the Hotel President for our two night stay.

I did not really want to leave the coast, but all good things must come to an end. The boarder crossing was only about 10 minutes from Dubrovnik so we were soon into another country.

The history and the current situation of this country is interesting. Three main groups both reside and manage the country - Croations, Serbs and Bosnians. The countryside was beautiful to drive through, large granite mountains and clear rivers. Some of the Balkans remind me of the fiords in Norway.

Our first stop was in Mostar. This is the location of the famous bridge (image on the itinerary page of my website). We learnt about the war and watched a short film on the history. The weather now is very warm, in the 30’s. Making walking around on cobblestones and steps challenging.

Then onto Sarajevo, a city famous for 3 things - the start of World War One, the Winter Olympics in the 80’s and the siege of the city for more than 1000 days in the 90’s.

Our hotel is close to the old city so I walked around last night, the city seems to be a melting pot of all types of people and religions - from Roman Catholic, mosques, Jewish temples and orthodox.

I ate dinner in town, Bosnia and Herzegovina’s most well-known dish is ćevapi, which is minced meat formed into sausages and served inside a flatbread with onions and sauce. It is the country’s national dish, and can be found in most restaurants as well as on street stalls. The sausages are grilled, and then placed inside the bread, which has been warmed through; the sauce is usually cottage cheese or sour cream, and then the whole serving is topped off with raw or fried cubed white onion. I can recommend it!

Explore the treasures of Sarajevo on a guided tour that includes Bascarsija in the heart of old Sarajevo, Gazi Husrev Beg’s Mosque and the Sarajevo Tunnel Museum.

Tonight we will be treated to a private home-hosted dinner of traditional Bosnian cuisine where we will have the opportunity to learn about everyday life in Sarajevo.

On our last day in Sarajevo we drove along snipper alley to visit the 'tunnel of salvation' or 'tunnel of life'.

The tunnel was constructed between March and June 1993 during the Siege of Sarajevo in the midst of the Bosnian War. It was built by the Bosnian Army in order to link the city of Sarajevo, which was entirely cut off by Serbian forces, with Bosnian-held territory on the other side of the Sarajevo Airport, an area controlled by the United Nations. The tunnel allowed food, war supplies, and humanitarian aid to come into the city, and allowing people to get out. The tunnel became a major way of bypassing the international arms embargo and providing the city defenders with weaponry.

It is hard to describe the stories and films that we saw describing the impacts of the war. Definately makes you feel lucky for what you have.

Then a walking tour of the old town and a visit to the mosuque. Free time in the afternoon to wander around before heading to a local family for dinner.

Again hearing stories from the people that lived through the war was humbling. There was plenty of food and when I asked for just a little bit, our host said that they were there to feed us! Dinner consistent of soup, then a main of vine leaves suffed with meat and rice and onions also filled with meat and rice and sides of potato and cabbage. Dessert was Bosnian baklava - our host explained it was not like turkey or greece made with honey, just a kilo of sugar and water!

We continue to Zagreb and arrive at our Special Stay hotel, Esplande Zargreb Hotel.

We discover Zagreb on a guided tour, before travelling to Plitvice National Park. Then wander meandering pathways that pass emerald green lakes, stepped and linked by magnificent waterfalls.

We left the hotel at 8am and travelled until around 10:30am to reach the national park. This is very popular attraction, so lots of people. The weather was sunny and warm. Walking with the local guide we walked to the lower falls, from the top to the base of the waterfalls and back up again. Then onto a boat across the lake before walking back up again.

I don't have a lot more to say other than I had a great day, I will let the photos do the talking for this one.

We journey to Budapest for our overnight stay at the Marriott.

Well all good things must come to an end. This afternoon we returned to Budapest from Zagreb. After our final group dinner I have returned to the room to finish packing.

We depart after breakfast. It’s the end of our tour, but the start of a lifetime of wonderful memories.

My flight is an early one so I will leave the hotel at 6:40am.

It has been a great trip with a combination of history, architecture, different cultures and natural beauty.

See you all soon, signing off from another adventure.

Wednesday 12 June 2019 Depart: 9:40am Depart FERIHEGY, BUDAPEST on QATAR AIRWAYS flight QR 202 Business Class Aircraft: AIRBUS INDUSTRIE 320 Flying time: 5 hours and 20 minutes Distance: 2335 miles Arrive: 4:00pm DOHA Wednesday 12 June 2019

Wednesday 12 June 2019 Depart: 8:20PM DOHA on QATAR AIRWAYS flight QR 908 Business Class Aircraft: Airbus Industrie A380-800 Flying time: 14 hours and 15 minutes Distance: 7691 miles Arrive: 5:35pm SYDNEY Thursday 13 June 2019